- Luca Rädler
Suits are still known as the most important and most traditional part of Menswear. Today we want to introduce you to a men’s tailor who we visited in his beautiful studio in Berlin, Robert Vogdt.
Robert Vogdt states: “There’s McDonald’s and three-star restaurants, but there’s nothing in between. This is the place that I want to occupy.” Meaning: there’s very exclusive handcraft (Full-Handmade-Bespoke) and Made-to-Measure chain stores. Full-Handmade-Bespoke gets his name from the 40-80 of excessive handwork that are needed to produce one suit, which explains the price point of up to 5,000 Euros. With Made-to-Measure chains the options for your suit are much more restricted because of their use of pre-made patterns and the use of modern technology to fabricate the garments.
Robert Vogdt is somewhere in between those two. Customers get measured and can design their suit as well as choose the fabrics from a wide range of options, just like at a more exclusive tailor. But the patterns are computer-made, even though a lot of it is still done by hand, the production is outsourced. After one or two fittings and a little fine-tuning afterwards, the custom-made suit is done in just a couple of weeks.
But it’s not only Robert Vogdt’s attitude, that stands out, his suits feature some extraordinary specialties as well. If you pay his studio a visit, you might notice that most fabrics are quite heavy, with a grainy structure. “When it comes to fabrics, I definitely am more of a winter’s child.”
Robert’s cuts are a step back to more opulent silhouettes of the 40s. Longer jackets with wider lapels are the counterpart to the currently prevalent Skinny-Fit suits. Sometimes, there’s even a hint of countermovement in Robert’s creations. A summer coat stays unlined, no shoulder pads and the hardly used second button gets completely left off.
Robert aims to create a space and business, where his friends are able to afford handmade garments that are created to be worn and loved for a lifetime.
Möckernstraße 68 · 10965 Berlin
Tel.: 0176 62407622 · Mail: firstname.lastname@example.org
All images © Sylvie Weber